Last updated: May 2026 · Written by Katie Johnson, founder of The Fragrance World
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Aftershave is a low-concentration scented liquid (typically 1-3% fragrance oils) designed to be applied to the face after shaving. Its primary purpose is to disinfect small cuts, soothe razor burn, and close pores. The “scent” is secondary to the function. True aftershave is different from cologne, EDT, or EDP — those are perfumes worn for fragrance, applied to pulse points, and last 3-12 hours. Aftershave evaporates in 30-60 minutes and rarely projects beyond the wearer’s face. In UK usage, “aftershave” is often used loosely to mean “men’s perfume” — but technically, what most men call their aftershave is actually an EDT or EDP.
TFW perspective: Most men we sell to use the term ‘aftershave’ loosely for what they actually wear — EDP. Our men’s range (Wild, Victory, TV, Layton, Imagine) is all EDP-grade, applied to pulse points after shaving and a separate skin-soothing balm. The two products do different jobs.
Contents
- 1. What aftershave actually does
- 2. The chemistry of aftershave vs perfume
- 3. Why aftershave burns
- 4. Aftershave vs cologne vs EDT vs EDP — the strength scale
- 5. When to use aftershave (and when to use EDP)
- 6. The best aftershaves vs the best men’s EDPs
- 7. FAQ
What aftershave actually does
Real aftershave has three functions, in order of importance:
- 1. Antiseptic — alcohol kills bacteria in shaving cuts. This is the primary purpose. Without it, micro-cuts can become infected, leading to ingrown hairs and folliculitis.
- 2. Astringent — alcohol and witch hazel close pores. This reduces redness and irritation.
- 3. Soothing — modern aftershaves add aloe vera, glycerin, or chamomile to counteract the drying effect of the alcohol.
- 4. Scented — a light fragrance to leave the face smelling fresh. This is incidental, not the main purpose.
The “burn” you feel from aftershave is the alcohol contacting open micro-cuts. It’s a feature, not a bug — that burn is the alcohol disinfecting the wound.
The chemistry of aftershave vs perfume
| Aftershave | Cologne (EDC) | EDT | EDP | Extrait | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fragrance oils | 1-3% | 3-5% | 5-15% | 15-20% | 25-40% |
| Alcohol | 50-70% | 80-90% | 80-90% | 70-80% | 60-70% |
| Water | 27-49% | 5-15% | 5-15% | 5-15% | 5-15% |
| Other (witch hazel, aloe, glycerin) | 5-15% | 0-5% | 0-5% | 0-5% | 0-5% |
| Wear time | 30-60 minutes | 2-4 hours | 3-6 hours | 6-12 hours | 8-14 hours |
| Application area | Face after shave | Pulse points | Pulse points | Pulse points | Pulse points |
The key chemistry difference: aftershave has the lowest fragrance concentration AND the highest soothing-additive content. Cologne and EDT are more concentrated and don’t include the soothing additives.
Why aftershave burns
The alcohol in aftershave (typically denatured ethanol at 50-70% concentration) contacts open micro-cuts on the freshly-shaved skin. Alcohol is a disinfectant — it kills bacteria by denaturing their proteins. The same chemistry that kills bacteria irritates the nerves in the cut.
Modern aftershave balms reduce the burn by:
- – Lower alcohol percentage (some balms are alcohol-free)
- – Added aloe vera, chamomile, or panthenol to soothe
- – Cream or gel base instead of liquid
If the burn is unbearable: switch to an alcohol-free balm, or apply moisturiser before the aftershave to create a barrier.
Aftershave vs cologne vs EDT vs EDP
This is where UK terminology gets confusing:
- – Aftershave (true) = post-shave skin treatment with light scent. 1-3% fragrance oils.
- – Cologne = US term for any men’s fragrance OR European EDC concentration. 3-5% fragrance oils.
- – EDT = Eau de Toilette. 5-15% fragrance oils. Most common men’s fragrance category.
- – EDP = Eau de Parfum. 15-20% fragrance oils. Stronger, longer-lasting men’s fragrance.
When a UK man says “I just bought a new aftershave,” they almost always mean EDT or EDP, not actual aftershave.
When to use aftershave (and when to use EDP)
Use aftershave when you’ve just finished wet shaving and want disinfection + a light freshness.
Use EDT or EDP when you want a fragrance that lasts the day, projects beyond your face, and stands up as a signature scent. Apply to pulse points (wrists, neck, behind ears) — not the face.
For most men, the right kit is:
- – A simple aftershave balm immediately after shaving
- – An EDT or EDP applied to pulse points 5 minutes later
Don’t apply EDT/EDP directly to a freshly-shaved face — it’ll burn worse than dedicated aftershave because of higher fragrance oil concentration.
Best aftershaves vs best men’s EDPs
Aftershaves (true post-shave products):
- – Proraso (Italian, classic, eucalyptus-menthol)
- – Truefitt & Hill (British, traditional barbershop)
- – Bulldog Original Aftershave Balm (UK, alcohol-free, sensitive skin)
- – Dr Bronner’s Lavender Toner (multi-purpose, very mild)
Men’s EDPs that are commonly miscalled “aftershave”:
- – Creed Aventus (£370) → TFW Victory (£29.95)
- – Dior Sauvage EDP (£100) → TFW Wild (£29.95)
- – Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille (£250) → TFW TV (£29.95)
- – Bleu de Chanel EDP (£105) → TFW Blue (£29.95)
The Fragrance World’s full men’s range at /shop/?gender=men — all 50ml £29.95.
FAQ
What is aftershave used for? Aftershave is applied to the face immediately after shaving to disinfect small cuts (preventing infection and ingrown hairs), close pores, and leave skin lightly scented. The disinfection function is the primary purpose; the scent is secondary.
What’s the difference between aftershave and cologne? Aftershave is a low-concentration product (1-3% fragrance oils) designed for post-shave skin treatment. Cologne (EDC) is a higher-concentration scent product (3-5% oils) designed as a perfume. In UK usage the terms are often confused — most men using “aftershave” colloquially are actually using EDT or EDP men’s fragrance.
Why does aftershave burn? The alcohol in aftershave (50-70% denatured ethanol) contacts the open micro-cuts from shaving. Alcohol is a disinfectant — it kills bacteria but also irritates the cut nerves. Switching to an alcohol-free balm or applying moisturiser first reduces the burn.
What does aftershave do? Four things: (1) disinfects shaving cuts to prevent infection, (2) closes pores via the astringent action of alcohol and witch hazel, (3) soothes irritation through added aloe vera or chamomile, (4) leaves a light scent. The first three are functional; the fourth is incidental.
Should I use aftershave every day? Only if you wet-shave every day. The alcohol can dry skin if used without shaving. If you electric-shave or skip a day, just use a moisturiser without aftershave.
Can I wear aftershave as a perfume? You can, but the scent will only last 30-60 minutes — much less than a real EDT or EDP. For all-day fragrance, use an EDP applied to pulse points, not aftershave on the face.
What aftershave do barbers use? Most UK barbers use Proraso (Italian classic), Truefitt & Hill (British barbershop), or Bulldog (UK sensitive-skin brand). For the lighter scent applied at the end of a barbershop visit, many use traditional bay rum or sandalwood EDC at 3-5% concentration.
Sources & references
This article draws on industry standards (IFRA), perfumery reference works (Perfumes: The A-Z Guide by Turin & Sanchez), the Fragrantica community fragrance database, the Good Scents Company chemistry database, and The Fragrance World’s own product testing notes. Where specific named studies or proprietary data are cited inline, please verify against the original source before reuse.
